An article in this past Sunday’s NY Times Magazine by Michael Pollen almost made me cry. Mr. Pollen’s article is called “Unhappy Meals”, but it actually made me very happy. It’s about something that concerns me a lot – the connection between eating and health. Over the past 10 or 15 years, there has been a lot of confusion about whether we humans, especially those of us here in the rich western world, can live longer and healthier lives by eating the right things in the right amounts. Being a vegetarian and a healthy-eating advocate, I believe that it can be done. Being a rationalist and a son of the Enlightenment, I believe that we can use our brains to turn away from impulsive, immediate – gratification eating habits and learn to shovel the right stuff down our throats. And that we can do it while still maintaining respect for flavor and satisfaction, thus obtaining the best long-term outcome.
Unfortunately, a lot of people don’t think it can be done. Most disappointingly, a lot of scientists have been adding on to this theme lately. Within the past year or two, a bunch of studies have come out implying that nothing works; you can’t prevent cancer or heart disease or anything else by eating more broccoli and fewer bacon and cheese omelets. All the theories regarding the benefits of low-fat, high fiber, highly diverse diets have been cast in doubt. Might as well pile up on the fried chicken and ice cream.
Mr. Pollen acknowledges all of that, and then fires a heavy salvo of common sense back at it. He turns the tide back toward the obvious: Americans generally eat a lousy diet, and are paying the price in poor health. Oh sure, you can come up with all kinds of statistics about how healthy and long-lived Americans are. But that’s because capitalism is so good at coming up with fixes for all the bad stuff we do to our bodies by chowing down on the junk. We have heart by-passes, insulin pumps, statins, chemotherapy, all kinds of stuff to keep our messed-up bodies alive. But is that really the life we want to be living? And isn’t it catching up with us – the rising costs of health care are a big threat to the economic well being of our nation. If things keep going as they are, at some point it’s going to come down to triage; some people are going to get health care, and others are going to be left in the gutter.
Well, me and my little blog here aren’t going to change all of that. But maybe Mr. Pollen has a shot. His article is that good. It’s really worth a read. It reminds me of a line or two from a 1980’s song by Asia: “and now, the tears are in my eyes, the sound you can’t disguise, the truth comes back from lies”. (I think this was from Voice of America). The light of truth is finally reaching the dark recesses of Republican-era dieting fads like Atkins (although Atkins was right about one thing: protein makes you eat less, and eating less is good; however, you can still be a veg-head like me and get enough protein to control your calories).
I might disagree with Mr. Pollen on a couple of points. He says that eating meat in small quantities is OK. Well, it may not have any terrible health consequences if people truly would learn to use meat only as a seasoning and cut out the fat. But there are still lots of social and even moral benefits to going “cold tofu turkey” with meat (e.g., less production of greenhouse gasses). Also, Mr. Pollen says to avoid all processed food, i.e. all modern ménages of food ingredients like Cool Whip or breakfast bars. Well, I mostly agree; however, there may be a good innovation here or there that should not be thrown out. My favorite candidate: soy yogart (unpaid-for plug here for White Wave Silk; I like it, and I think it’s a health food – I want to see it catch on).
But still, the point remains: we know what a good overall mix of foods looks like, and in what amounts. A diet based on such a mix would most likely make a whole lot of people healthier. And it wouldn’t taste all that bad either, although it wouldn’t deliver the immediate gratification that our overly-sweet and salty and fatty fare does today.
Big business has turned America into a nation of junkies for sugar, salt and fat – and for all sorts of medicines and medical treatments. Some folk are getting rich off of this, but a whole lot of people are doing poorly, just as any other sort of junkie does — be they a heroin junkie, a crack junkie, a booze junkie or a cigarette junkie. Mr. Pollen is the voice of culinary reason crying in the wilderness: America, break the habit, and pass the kale and the asparagus.