There’s a reflection on the evolution of ice cream into “frozen dairy desserts” in today’s New York Times Dining and Wine section. The “De Gustibus” column writer, Dan Barry, had a case-in-point with Breyers Ice Cream. In Mr. Barry’s younger days (which were also my younger days), Breyers was what a middle-class family bought for special occasions. It was real ice cream with lots of butterfat. Today, Breyers mostly offers concoctions of milk, corn syrup, whey, carrageenan and various vegetable gums; real ice cream is left to the high-cost snobs and “artisanal” producers such as Haagen Dazs, Ben and Jerrys, and Glace. Allegedly, the masses want cold stuff that is very sweet and very smooth, more so than the rich stickiness of high-fat ice cream.
And so “frozen dairy desserts” is mostly what they get, most of the time. As in the days when Breyers was real, most people still like to splurge now and then, and thus may stop at Cold Stone or pick up a quart of Turkey Hill premium. But more and more freezer space in the supermarkets is taken up by those “frozen desserts” (including some Turkey Hill offerings).
Mr. Barry regrets this trend. To be honest, though, I don’t. Sure, the big food producers are making a ton of money » continue reading …

