PINOT NOIR
Olivet Lane 1996 Russian River Valley
Nose is mostly alcohol and ester, very clear. In the mouth, some vanilla, a bit of pepper even. Fairly tannic for a pinot noir, almost like a zin. Cherry, estery backdrop. Parchment / buttered bread finish. Some after-taste, but not long. Not robust, but substantial enough. Interesting, a somewhat enigmatic wine.
Leeward 1996
INTERESTING: Purplish-red tone, substantial nose. Tannic on the tongue and the swallow. Some lovely cherry tones in between. A bit of resin / turpentine in the offing, soft fruit on the palate. Complex, long finish, not the easiest wine to drink, but very interesting.
Erath 1997 Willamette Valley
A classic ruby red color, rich nose of bright cherry and alcohol. Very smooth feel, subtle fruit blend of blackberry, strawberry, cherry with a bit of anise. Not much tannic, almost refreshing on the tongue due to an astringent flavor a bit like cola. Somewhat of an earthy / graphite-like backdrop, with a pleasant, quick and clean finish.
Duck Pond 1997
Pleasant, easy to drink. Nice plum and cherry essences build on the swallow. Not big or long, maybe even watery, but flavor comes through if you go slow, which you can since the tannic is well under control.
Beringer Founders Estate 1997
Starts out OK but finishes a bit watery. Dry, low tannic, very demure. A hint of cherry over a substantial leather / wood base. OK, but not all that big. Subtle, more like a French wine.
Farallon 1998 North Coast
Nose is evanescent, not fruity, almost effervescent. Not a big wine, fairly subtle. A bit tannic, but generally balanced. Rather prominent woody backdrop. Finish is clean, with a bit of woody after-taste left on the tongue. Otherwise, plum, currant and cherry form the base, as expected. Overall, not bad; subtle but interesting.
Napa Ridge 1998 North Coast
Some nose, spicy. A bit tannic. Cherry, plum, raspberry, spice. Eviscerating sensation on the back of the palate, into the nostrils. Clear swallow, but some finish. Without the tannic, might be a bit juice-like.
Ramsay 1998
PLEASANT: Piquant nose. Nice mouthfeel, clean swallow. On the palate, a sensation of cherry, some currant on the sides of the tongue. Just a bit of underlying earthy oak. Not all that big, but rather pleasant.
Indigo Hills 1998
WORTH IT: Some nose, mostly alcohol. A very woody / oakey start. Trails off in the mouth, one needs to search for the plum, berry, and cherry tones. But a nice soft feel, not much tannic. Very clean swallow, not very long in aftertaste, but the woody start is well worth it.
Moninore Vinyards 1999 Willamette Valley
A rather deep red-purple hue, surprising for a pinot noir. Nose is frail, faintly fruity. In the mouth, a bit woody, almost dry. Fruit is subtle, black plum, currant, blackberry. A dry, tannic but not puckery swallow, some length to it, somewhat like dried herbs. Overall: different than the usual pinot noir, or most any other wine. Subtle, somewhat reminiscent of herbal tea.
Purple Mountain 2000 North Coast
A light bouquet, almost sour. More tannicy than the usual pinot noir, delicate, not big. Bright cherry fruit accents. A bit of graphite beneath. Less lush than some pinot noirs. Quick swallow. A light, "French style" wine. POSTSCRIPT: I inadvertantly bought another bottle of this wine a few months later, so I tried it again. A local wine expert had told me that pinot noirs can be unpredictable; bottles from the same case may seem like entirely different wines. And so it was with this one. On my second try, the wine was still a bit light, but was rounder and softer, with very little tannic. The graphite was now licorice, the bright cherry fruit had become currant and black plum. There was also a bit more presence after the swallow. On second try, this was a wine with some character, a certain finesse. But being a pinot noir, who knows what the third bottle will hold.
Anapamu 2000 Monterey County
Full nose, fragrant but not delicate or floral, somewhat robust like steak. A rounded mouthfeel from caramel, despite noticeable tannins. Cherry and prune fruit, not lush. Some finish, more alcohol and tannic than fruity. Pleasant, some complexity, although one wonders if this wine has been engineered for pleasantness.
David Bruce 2000 Central Coast
SOPHISTICATED: Enters the glass with a deep ruby hue, leaves a coating behind as you stir it. A big nose, unlike the typical demure pinot noir. Almost zin-like notes of licorice, plum and leather. To the lips, rich and smooth, with very nice body, a bit of tannic, cherry and red raspberry fruit, polished leather. Smoother than a zin, but deep and plummy nonetheless. A bit spirited like brandy. More fruity brightness and cherry flavors on the swallow, which fade gracefully. Quite sophisticated, overall.
Pepperwood Grove 2000
QUITE DECENT: Clear and ruby hued, with a subtle nose that's just a bit flowery. Smooth and pleasant on the lips and tongue, with a bit of tannicy buzz almost like a zin. The fruit is also somewhat zin-like, more dark and raisiny than cherry and raspberry-ish. But some underlying bright notes still find their way through the tobacco-like backdrop. Balanced and rich enough. Quite decent companionship for a meal, or even just for a nice glass of wine.
Kendall Jackson 2001 Vinters Reserve
This one has a subtle nose that's a bit spicy and fruity. The hue is deep ruby. It enters the mouth quietly, a subtle wine, delicate and thin. The fruit is chary, of blackberry or currant, with none of the usual pinot noir cherry notes. A sense of cognac stands behind it. A demure tannic buzz starts on the palate and continues through the swallow. The orchestra then fades rather quickly, and not much is left besides a slightly sour / bitter moment. This wine is OK, but not all that memorable. Other than its lightness, it's not much like other pinot noirs; it's more like a lighter merlot or syrah.
Lane Tanner 1998 Santa Maria Valley
A fake cork -- I guess Ms. Tanner isn't into pretentions. The wine pours with a reddish-brown hue and a clear, exquisite nose including vanilla, fruit, alcohol, mint . . . nicely balanced so far. Now to the liquid itself. A bit strong on the tongue, seemingly tannic, but no real buzz. The tones are of raw leather, autumn leaves, wet earth . . . but some brightness still shines thru, like an October morning. The fruit is more dry than lush, including currant, date, and blackberry. The balance is good, not especially rich but pleasantly complex, with a nice lingering finish. There is throughout a slightly sour edge, a bit "French" in character. Not bad overall, but hard to say why this is a pinot noir.
Smoking Loon 2001
The hue is dense and brownish-red, while the nose is recessed with a touch of cherry. Has a medium body, soft tannins, some caramelly richness, notes of raspberry, cherry and dark plum. Not much else though, not very complex. A nice swallow with some lingering presence. Not bad, but there ain't all that much to say about it.
Etude 2002
THUMBS UP. Has a cherry juice hue, but a surprisingly rich nose, quite fruity. It gives a nice feel to the mouth, with a sweet note on the tip of the tongue but some tannic buzz on the palate. The fruit is strawberry, ripe pear and white cherry, with some polished leather behind it. caramel lines the throat for a long swallow and a graceful finish. A very well balanced experience.
Bearboat 2002
Has a lite, clear ruby appearance. The nose has some vanilla, but is also somewhat sour. Nonetheless, this wine is quite smooth on the tongue. It has some richness and body, but is generally light (in the French tradition). Bits of currant, raspberry, brandy, caramel, and that good old French earthen mustiness pass by. Despite some tannic buzz in the background, you get an easy swallow with some length, giving way to a clean finish. Overall: not bad.
Francis Coppola 2003 Diamond Collection
A deep ruby bouquet, almost too dark for a pinot noir. A touch of vanilla in the nose. Starts out smoothly, then expands into a fruity melange of blueberry, currant, polish and brandy. But this all dissipates quickly, leaving behind a note of tannic bitterness. The wine is complex enough, but not lush at all. Not too much to remember it by.
Estancia Pinnacles 2001 Monterey
This one definitely looks like a pinot noir, just like cherry juice. Has a recessed, woody nose with berries afloat. It's well mannered on the tongue, but not jammy or lush; more gravely and dry. There are some tannins lose behind the black cherry and currant. An interesting note of polished leather pops up for a moment or two. And there's just a bit of cellar must in the backdrop, for a Euro touch. The swallow is spirited, but fades quickly; can't stand up too long. This pinot noir is more on the dark side; and yet, it's not very bold or intense. Nonetheless, it has something to offer in terms of demure complexity.
Kendall-Jackson 2004
A light nose and light ruby hue, with just a sense of flowers and spice. Makes an easy entry on the tongue, with a bit more body than the nose would admit. Provides an interesting hint of licorice, just a bit of tannin, a note of brandy, and is almost minty. The fruit presence is light, ripe strawberries and cherries. Makes an easy finish with just a bit of tannin to lengthen it. This wine is satisfying enough, showing some complexity. Has a bit of caramel body and a good overall balance. In sum: a nice wine.
Trapiche 2005 (Argentina)
Shows a light, hazy magenta hue, and a nose of vanilla and perfume. It's a bit sweet on the palate but with tannic balance. It has some body; tarry and charry with a bit of wood varnish. However, despite the sweet start, it's not terribly fruity, with vague hints of blackberry, boysenberry and currant. Tends a bit toward dryness at the end, but overall is fairly rich and soft. The afterglow is nice. Pretty good for a cheap wine!
Saintsbury 2004 Carneros
The hue is ruby, just a bit hazy. The nose is surprisingly prominent and lacquery. The body is substantial, caramelly and smooth with very demure tannins. Presents a bit of ripe strawberry and blueberry with a classic woody backdrop. Swallows easy with a bit of tannic length and a slightly bitter finale. Quite nice, nonetheless; very balanced and very substantial for a pinot noir!
Adelsheim 2005 Willamette Valley
This is an Oregon pinot noir, but it takes you to on a trip to France. Has a light-clear ruby hue with a complex nose, a bit fruity, a bit perfumy, a bit woody. Makes a nice rich entry on the tongue, rather oakey and earthy up front. The fruit is very demure and very recessed; notes of lacquer, musty wood, tannin and tea run the show. It ends on a slightly bitter note like black tea. So there's a definite French influence here, a light body (but with some caramel structure behind it). It's interesting and sophisticated, but not my kind of wine. This proves that an American winery can do what the French do; a dubious accomplishment in my book.
Adelsheim 2005 Willamette Valley
This is an Oregon pinot noir, but it takes you to on a trip to France. Has a light-clear ruby hue with a complex nose, a bit fruity, a bit perfumy, a bit woody. Makes a nice rich entry on the tongue, rather oakey and earthy up front. The fruit is very demure and very recessed; notes of lacquer, musty wood, tannin and tea run the show. It ends on a slightly bitter note like black tea. So there's a definite French influence here, a light body (but with some caramel structure behind it). It's interesting and sophisticated, but not my kind of wine. This proves that an American winery can do what the French do; a dubious accomplishment in my book.
Mark West 2006 California
A DIFFERENT PINOT NOIR: The appearance is just a bit cloudy, and the nose is surprisingly substantial, slightly charry. It makes a nice, smooth introduction into the mouth, despite a rather tannic backdrop. The body is on the thin side, presenting blackberries and a hint of spearment and rose petal on the swallow. The finish is light and quick and very clean. Rather subtle and complex, overall.
La Crema 2005
Pours with a clear texture, a bit pale in blush. The nose is refined, with a hint of brandy to it. It's nice on the tongue, but with more tannins than the average pinot. There's blackberry, mulberry, charcoal and a bit of pepper in the mix. Hardly any sweet notes. It makes an easy, clean exit, but with some after-presence. This wine does a lot despite a light body. It presents a lot of complexity despite the lack of a caramel base.
Mikassou 2006
As with most pinot noirs, the hue is ruby clear, if a bit darker in tone. Your nose says that it's light and liquor-y. The mouth is treated to an easy entry. You think of burnt toast for a second. Not very fruity, just a bit of currant, with some wood for flavor-structure. There is body to it, with a bit of tannin speaking up at the swallow. Still, you sense a nice after-glow, just a bit reminiscent of perfumed soap. This pinot is more mellow than bright. It's generally pleasant, and is fairly rich for a PN.

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